Knocking themselves out

2011-06-03 00:00

Zagat Survey recently released its 2011/12 Boston-area guide, offering rankings for almost 1,400 restaurants, derived from the input of about 7,500 people. This year, respondents’ No. 1 complaint was service. Sixty-five percent named it the prime irritant while dining. This is nothing new. In fact, it’s an improvement from last year’s 72 percent. Service is the main complaint in other cities, as well. “I think it’s the weak link in the restaurant industry,’’ says Tim Zagat, CEO and cofounder of the survey with wife Nina.

Those who work at restaurants may beg to differ. But everyone can agree on one thing: Service is extremely important. Diners want to be treated well. And restaurateurs want them to keep returning.

“I think it’s the most important aspect of the restaurant business,’’ says Nicole Bernier, general manager and wine director of Rendezvous in Cambridge. “It doesn’t matter if you’re in a small little restaurant or a high-end restaurant, hospitality is key.’’

For Bernier, it starts with greeting people at the door with a genuine smile. “We really, really try to make people happy,’’ she says. “This is a silly thing, but I try to seat incomplete parties. Their friends are probably on their way shortly, and it’s going to be much more comfortable sitting at the table. We treat people how we’d like to be treated.’’

At Bistro 5 in West Medford, chef-owner Vittorio Ettore takes a similar tack. “One of the things I really dislike about restaurants is when they make you feel you’re lucky to be there. I make sure servers understand that here the attitude is contrary. We are lucky to have you here tonight. You’ve chosen us vs. a ton of other restaurants.’’

They demonstrate this attitude by doing everything from altering dishes to splitting orders. And if only one person at the table wants to do a tasting menu, that’s just fine. “If I order six courses and you order one entree, I think you understand you’re going to have to wait around,’’ he says.

When restaurants refuse to do such things, he says, “at the end of day it’s for the comfort and laziness of the chef. I’m sorry. Some chefs’ egos are just too big.’’

Big egos don’t mesh with hospitality. Mark D’Alessandro, general manager of Mistral Bistro, stresses the importance of taking responsibility. “People want an experience where they feel like they’re being treated well,’’ he says. “If something goes wrong, there has to be an acknowledgement from the restaurant. If you make a mistake, don’t try to hide it or make excuses.’’

Devra First

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