Local restaurants ready to unfurl their goods as the weather improves

Fortunately, between creative menus packed with fresh ingredients, new covered-patio options and diners determined to make the most of any dry hour, it's shaping up to be a delicious spring.

Bona Terra in Sharpsburg is something of a destination restaurant, so when the forecast predicts storms, chef-owner Douglass Dick knows to expect cancellations (a useful tip for diners who have trouble getting into Bona Terra). To help fill up his reservation book, he sends updates to an e-mail list of regular customers announcing the arrival of seasonal produce such as asparagus, morels and soft-shell crabs.

"Lettuces and some of the heartier greens that I usually get early were almost impossible this year," said Mr. Dick. But a lot of spring produce is grown in greenhouses, so he's still had plenty to work with.

"I've had a lot of fun with local asparagus," he said, "grilling them, doing a light marinade and [putting] that on tasting salads with some different shaved cheeses."

Morels have gone into mushroom tarts, and ramps into a compound butter that became a beurre blanc. In the next few weeks he's anticipating local peas, cucumber and zucchini, along with Maryland soft-shell crab, which is still early in its season.

The rain affects access to all kinds of farm-raised food. Kevin Costa, chef at the Crested Duck, an artisanal butcher shop at Pittsburgh Public Market in the Strip District, has experienced delays in sourcing chickens and rabbits, because "the rain affects how fast they put on weight," he said. "One of the farms where I get duck eggs, they're still laying, but far less than they would be."

Mr. Costa's dedication to local and sustainable sourcing means that he has to be flexible and ready to work with what's available, which is part of the fun. Despite his meat-focused enterprise, Mr. Costa is excited to work with spring produce. He has been adding more vegetarian options to his line-up, such as an asparagus and crimini terrine and a wild mushroom pate.

Chilled soups are another big trend this year, popping up on menus in all shades of green. The chilled pea soup at Habitat in Downtown's Fairmont hotel is topped with minted cream and pea tendrils. At Dinette in East Liberty, there's a "grilled and chilled" asparagus soup with creme fraiche and edible flowers. At Eleven Contemporary Kitchen in the Strip District, a salad of a soup incorporates asparagus, peas, romaine lettuce, miso, avocado and mint.

Despite the challenging weather for local farms, it's easier than ever to find seasonal food in Pittsburgh, as more restaurants offer frequently changing, seasonally driven menus. At Habitat, braised organic chicken thighs are paired with ricotta cannelloni, morels and peas. Seared Elysian Fields lamb loin and braised shoulder come with fava beans and spring garlic puree.

At Spoon in East Liberty, day boat scallops and grilled prawns are a lavish addition to a spring risotto with local ramps, fava beans, asparagus and a lemon beurre blanc.

Local cafes even offer in-season coffee along with seasonally inspired baked goods. Earlier this week at Aldo Coffee in Mt. Lebanon, the menu included asparagus and sorrel quiche and a rhubarb-oatmeal bar, the perfect complement to a cup of spring, direct-trade coffee from Guatemala or El Salvador.

While there's plenty of spring food to enjoy, it's been a bit harder to enjoy it outdoors. All this rain is especially frustrating for restaurants that have put extra effort into al fresco offerings. When outdoor dining is available at Tamari in Lawrenceville, "it doubles the seating capacity of the restaurant," said bar manager Tom Mastascusa. This year, it has been used about 10 percent of the time. The lovely back deck, with its stunning view of the Pittsburgh skyline, hasn't been used at all, because there haven't been enough dry days in a row to fix it up for the summer season, Mr. Mastascusa said.

It's no wonder that more restaurants are incorporating awnings and other protective coverings. BRGR in East Liberty has redone its second-floor deck, adding a roof and ceiling fans. Nearby at the new Mad Mex Shadyside on Highland Avenue, a garage door-style front wall opens up to the street, easily transforming the restaurant when the sun is shining.

At the new NOLA on the Square in Market Square, cafe-style seating in front of the restaurant is covered by a deep awning, ensuring that intrepid Pittsburgh diners can make the most of spring, rain or shine.